Around All Saints Bay

Rainbow(Note there are more photos on Facebook.)

I hope no one gets the wrong impression of this blog but I had to post this image which is what I saw when I awoke this morning. Two rainbows in three days is not the usual fare here and I promise no more this trip. I might take a picture of a unicorn but only if she purifies some water for me on a thirsty walk.

This morning I took a walk along the Atlantic coast and watched some guys try to surf. There were some signs up which I think indicated that this area would be off limits to vehicles starting tomorrow. The street that runs along the beach is typically touristy except there was a lot of construction going on. As I approached the Lighthouse of Salvador I recognized the cause for all the disruption. They are going to have FanFest just a couple of blocks from my apartment! Tomorrow evening I’ll be able to watch the sunset over All Saints Bay at the same time I’m watching Brazil-Croatia in the World Cup opening match on a huge screen with a couple thousand of my newest best friends.

Lighthouse of SalvadorThe Lighthouse of Salvador was first a fort the Portuguese built to guard the large bay. It was built in the late 1500s, the lighthouse added in the late 1600s. Now it serves as a nautical museum. Tourists are allowed to go all the way to the top of the lighthouse, which I did, of course. Near the top, the stairs are so steep they’re practically a ladder but the view is worth it.

Next I walked along the bay coast, a steady climb that became less touristy and more residential as I rose. My target was the British Cemetery because it’s not a vacation without a cemetery. I had only a vague location from the guidebook so I stopped to ask a guy with my very limited Portuguese. He directed me precisely without any words at all.

So far, I have rarely encountered anyone with English. This is encouraging me to continue my unfinished Rosetta Stone course.

MonkeyIn the brush just off the street I saw a strange animal. It looked like a really sick squirrel at first but then I realized he was a fellow primate. He had a long ringed tail, not quite as bushy as a squirrel’s and a nearly hairless face with these great white ear whiskers. He chittered at me but I couldn’t tell if it was a warning not to come any closer or a request for food. Still need to track down that Rosetta Stone course.

British CemeteryI found the British Cemetery but it was behind a locked gate. Luckily there was a guy in a uniform walking around and I was able to get his attention. Apparently the cemetery doesn’t open until 1pm and it closes at 2pm. I guess they’ve had some trouble with vandalism but, being a good guest, I decided to kill an hour having lunch.

Wandering through nicely shaded residential apartments I finally came upon a little diner. Like most places here, the seats are lawn furniture scattered on the sidewalk or even in the road. The waiter didn’t speak English nor did he offer me a menu. I pointed to what one of my fellow diners had just been given and asked for that. It was phenomenal! I got three little bowls of rice, lightly spiced noodles and a soup of beans and sausage and then the primary plate of lettuce, tomato and two pieces of chicken which had been cooked in some sauce that gave it nice paprika-ish kick without being overwhelming. Fortunately, I watched my fellow diners so I knew how I was suppose to consume this delightful meal and it cost less than I would’ve pay at The Dog House for my usual Wednesday lunch.

EPW1Back to the cemetery, I was a little early, but he let me in anyway. It’s small, walled off from the street on one side with a cliff to the bay on the other. Most of the stones had been reconstructed after years of neglect but there were still some wonders. I was especially drawn to Edward Pellew Wilson’s tomb with the statue of the mourning woman and his face apparently looking at her. Wilson was the founder of Wilson Sons, a shipping agent and operator of port terminals and tugboats. He died in 1887, apparently quite wealthy.

EPW0This is the kind of monument I’d like for myself except add a few more statues of weeping women. I know a nice club where you can find some ladies to use as models…


About Bartholomew Barker

Bartholomew Barker is one of the organizers of Living Poetry, a collection of poets and poetry lovers in the Triangle region of North Carolina. Born and raised in Ohio, studied in Chicago, he worked in Connecticut for nearly twenty years before moving to Hillsborough where he makes money as a computer programmer to fund his poetry habit.
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5 Responses to Around All Saints Bay

  1. Will says:

    I think your furry friend is a lemur. When you get back to the triangle, check out the lemur exhibit at the Museum of Life and Science. Let me know when you figure out what the dish you ate was….. and chicken in Portugese is galinha (phoenetic) .. that’s one of the few words I know.


  2. Jim says:

    I think lemurs are only indigenous to Madagascar.


  3. Will says:

    Correct … according to my internet research… it may be a coati.
    “Coati’s are Brazil’s answer to meerkats. They look like a cross between a badger and a ring-tailed lemur, actually they are related to racoons.”


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